The wait is just as long as you remember. You’ll still find the pre-party Korean businessmen sipping their sochu, the huge vats of water kimchi in the hallway and the people who sip it like fine wine. Meat excitement is in the air–all good signs.

Once seated, our table was bombarded with free food. There were half a dozen banchan including three excellent kimchis–the tart cabbage, radish kimchi cut into noodle-like strands and a jug of lemony water kimchi with melting ice. Dipping sauces, garlic, a killer pajeori (scallion salad) and a garden of 20 vegetables filled in the remaining table space.

As we grilled our first plate–unmarinated galbi (RMB110)–over glowing charcoals, the anticipation was palpable. Unfortunately the texture of the meat was inconsistent. Most of the pieces were chewy with just a few tender ones. On the other hand, the pork belly (RMB45), crispy on the edges and creamy with fat, was tasty. We wrapped it in in everything from the complimentary pickled perilla leaves to konbu and even boiled cabbage leaves. We alternated bites of barbecue with a just-fluffy-enough seafood pancake (RMB50), bibimbap (RMB35) and soondofu chigae (RMB35). The bibimbap and the soondofu chigae, despite being a ferocious red-orange color, were spiceless.

The highlight of our meal was the woo samgyup (thinly-sliced beef brisket, RMB60), Ben Jia’s specialty. The slices of beef were daintily laid onto the grill mesh by our waitress and cooked until caramelized and slightly juicy. The brisket had the best quality of the meats we ordered, sort of like what you’d find on top of a Yoshinoya beef bowl but a million times better.

Ben Jia has managed to maintain the balance between value and quality for the most part, and the place still conveys the feeling of Korean hospitality and home-cooked comfort that we’ve always loved.

DETAILS

What: Ben Jia

Where: 1339 Wuzhong Lu 吴中路1339号

Tel: 5118-2777