Back in the ’20s, Jimmy’s Kitchen’s was the only place in town to offer a clean table top and a taste of home for Westerners. Jimmy’s spirit is now back, and the new spot is the original white tablecloth restaurant with the air of a steakhouse. The interior is masculine but sleek, with simulated candles overhead, leather booths and quiet jazz. Despite the overeager service, it feels like Jimmy’s has always been in the Jinjiang.

The menu is like none other in town, with Continental offerings so retro no other place could get away with it. They have everything from Madras curries to chicken Kiev to beef Stroganoff. There’s also a rack of dry-aged steaks at steakhouse prices.

We began with a selection of raw milk cheese (RMB200) from Switzerland and France, a delicious two-person portion that included Roquefort, Emmenthal, Camembert, Livarot and a coin of goat cheese with walnuts and dried fruit. Our main, the perfectly salted duck confit risotto (RMB168), was glorious, with Parmesan, slivers of nutty mushroom and strips of tender duck. Our dining companion, an Italian, pointed out that the pasta wasn’t quite al dente, but had no qualms about declaring it of the best possible flavor. Our other entrée, the oxtail pot au feu (RMB188), came in a black crockpot of soup with a modest but tender chunk of stewed beef cheek. The soup is a rich beef consommé with potatoes, turnips and leeks as well as a big mop of baby Napa cabbage alongside a parsley-lemon vinaigrette. The subtle flavors ended on a high note with rich marrowbone.

For dessert, we tried the date pudding (RMB78) and chocolate fondant cake (RMB58)–both are simple and delicious. The pudding is a moist muffin with homemade hazelnut ice cream, and the indulgent Belgian-chocolate fondant cake has the right balance of sweetness in the dark chocolate. Jimmy’s delivers with perfect execution, proving that sometimes tradition really is best.

Our rating: 4/5

What: Jimmy’s Kitchen’s

Where: 1/F, Jinjiang Hotel, 59 Maoming Nan Lu 茂名南路59号锦江酒店1楼

Tel: 6466-6869

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