Isola, a solid high-end Hong Kong import, enjoys a choice location in the new ifc Mall with stunning views of the Pearl Tower and Lujiazui traffic circle from both the dining room and outdoor terrace. But an even more appealing sight, at least to us, was the immaculate open kitchen that greets diners. For such a new operation, the level of service is very impressive. The waitstaff has a solid command of English and are able to competently discuss wine and food selections and engage customers in casual banter.

We chose the Bel Star Prosecco (RMB68 per glass) to accompany our meal, which was one of the least expensive selections on an expansive wine list. We then made a beeline for the pizza trifola (RMB148) that we’d heard good things about. It is, frankly, a rich and wonderful creation. A thin crust dusted with shaved truffles imparts an earthy flavor, countered with the rich pastoral taste of warm buffalo milk cheese. This delicious pizza lingers in our dreams, even though the basil topping lacked aroma.

Next came the cacciucco alla livornese (RMB268), a Tuscan fish stew. This is a complex and challenging dish–it requires that a melange of sea creatures each receive individual attention so that they may together play together in a hall of briny tomato broth. The dish is wonderfully executed and the bass, clams and their friends make a fresh and exciting union.

The Amedei chocolate hot pudding (RMB88) comes disguised inside a small cake and paired with mocha ice cream. It’s decadent but not overly sweet, leaving us with one regret–a near perfect end to a wonderful meal.

Our rating: 4/5

DETAILS

What:Isola

Where: 4/F, ifc Mall, 8 Century Avenue

Tel: 5012-1277

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