Lü Bo Lang is no Nanxiang Tang Bao when it comes to drawing crowds, but it’s no second banana when it comes to food either. Despite its location in the City God Temple and the gimmicky list of famous patrons (including Queen Elizabeth and Bill Clinton–the man has eaten everywhere), Lü Bo Lang still draws in local food lovers with its dainty, specialty xiaochi.

The best are the piping-hot eyebrow crisps (RMB10 each) filled with pork, crunchy bamboo and mushroom and the sticky osmanthus cakes (RMB4 each). It’s also a classic dinner spot, featuring chefs who have worked here since 1979, when the restaurant opened. But next time you’re in the area, go in for dinner and make sure you try Lü Bo Lang’s underappreciated chicken soup (RMB188): it’s easily the best we’ve had in Shanghai. A whole chicken is stewed with umami-laden Jinhua ham, mushrooms and a pinch of scallion until the soup is as rich and complex as Cantonese bao tang. The non-poultry and spices are lifted out before serving, so the final presentation is simple, featuring a whole chicken, fragrant soup, a surface of glossy yellow fat and a dozen delicious (but invisible) flavors. Don’t let the simplicity fool you–it’s better than Grandma’s Kitchen’s and even Jesse’s versions.

DETAILS

What: Lü Bo Lang

Where: 115 Yuyuan Lu 豫园路115号

Tel: 6328-0602