With the Gulou area increasingly looking like Tokyo’s uber-hip Harajuku, we knew it wouldn’t be long before more Japanese restaurants arrived on the scene. The newest kid on the block is Taste of Sanma, opened three months ago by Dali, the proprietor of Luce. Like Luce, Taste of Sanma is geared to a slightly more sophisticated crowd, foregoing the 20-somethings-on-a-budget chic of places like Hot Bean Cooperative, and completely avoiding the kitsch trappings common in hutong restaurants.

With exposed wooden beams, warm lighting and tatami mat rooms with sliding doors, Taste of Sanma is more Tokyo than Beijing. Similar to Tori Tei, there is a large selection of delectable bits of chicken, pork and seafood grilled on sticks, starting at ¥4 per stick of crispy chicken skin, and up to ¥35 per stick of grilled salmon. Most, however, fall in the ¥5-10 per stick range. Lovers of takoyaki (fried octopus balls) beware, the fried squid balls (¥23), though tasty and covered in benito flakes, are not what you think—instead of the gooey innards and sweet sauce coating of a piece of takoyaki, you’ll be treated to a solid ball of squid cake, lightly fried and with a drizzling of slightly lemony sauce. Other things to try are the mustard octopus (¥18)—chunks of cold octopus in a wasabi-based dressing—and, of course, roasted pacific saury, otherwise known as sanma, which, at ¥22 per fish, is a steal.

Service is quick and efficient, and the bathroom is cute, clean and indoors. Although not on the menu, we spied a variety of chuuhai (a type of alcoholic soda sold in Japan) in the fridge for ¥15 a can. The only other place we know of selling these delightful drinks is Takenosuke in Chaowai SOHO.

Our rating: 4/5 stars

DETAILS

What: Taste of Sanma

Where: 70A Beiluoguxiang, 北锣鼓巷甲70号

Tel: 6407-8339

City Weekend is the only online magazine in Beijing to review restaurants according to a transparent process vetted by local food & beverage professionals. Check our Restaurant Review Process here.