Singaporeans are serious about their laksa, a spicy fish and noodle soup that, it seems, almost everyone in the crowded city-state can agree on—and Malaysians love it, too. Beijing is a great place to grab a bowl and reconnect with your childhood days in Singapore—even if you’ve never been there.

Oodles of Noodles

Lau Pa Sak, a “hawker’s food” restaurant in the embassy district, serves up Singaporean street fare, so it’s no wonder that the laksa (¥40) is proudly displayed as the second item on the menu. Diners can choose egg noodles or rice vermicelli, which arrives submerged in a rich broth of curry and coconut milk. Spongy tofu puffs soak up the flavors perfectly, while bland fish balls are mostly there for show. Chicken shreds, bean sprouts and fish strips add texture and complexity. We weren’t inclined to sip the oily broth after the noodles were gone, but we were satisfied anyway.

Find it: Xindong Lu, opposite Canadian Embassy, 新东路, 加拿大大使馆对面 Tel: 6417-0952

Street-food Chic

The CBD International restaurant at the Grand Millennium hotel, controlled by a Singaporean investment company, was bound to offer decent laksa, and it didn’t disappoint—though the price of ¥145 (including gratuity) would have fetched us several bowls at the other restaurants we tried. This was the best bowl we found in the city, with fresher seafood, more complex seasoning, and a lighter and more appetizing broth than the competition. We also appreciated the extra touches, like quail eggs and an optional sauce that tasted like sundried tomato and red pepper paste. What can we say; you get what you pay for.

Find it: 7 Third Ring Middle Road, 1/F Grand Millennium Hotel, 东三环中路7号财富中心, 千禧大酒店 Tel: 8587-6888

Toast of the Town

Well, not necessarily—priced at a very reasonable ¥18, the laksa at Toast Box is among Beijing’s most satisfying cheap eats. Fast food is rarely served in a sleek and stylish setting, but Toast Box is an exception, and we can see why there are nearly 40 of them in Singapore alone. The laksa came with rice noodles, an ample helping of tofu, a shrimp garnish, half an egg, bean sprouts, and some unidentifiable meat. We soon discovered, however, that the broth under the noodles was best left undisturbed. For only an extra ¥11, add the non-classic combo of a barley drink and “butter fire floss” toast (other options available).

Find it: B1-01, Raffles City Mall, Dongzhimen Nan Dajie 1 Hao, B1-01来福士商场, 东直门南大街1号 Tel: 8409-8892

And Two That Didn’t Make the List

Orchard 7: A close contender for our top three, the laksa at Orchard 7 was a decent dish served in clean, contemporary surroundings—it just failed to excite. The yellow curry broth made this laksa look different than the others we tried, but the taste fell flat. One welcome change was that we got three whole prawns, which left us wishing for a bit more seafood in all the dishes we tried. CBD lunchers can expect a decent Singaporean meal at this fairly secluded outlet (we couldn’t find a way to get there at night without running the wrong way up an escalator), but those seeking their laksa fix should steer clear.

Find it: E2220, 2/F, SOHO Shangdu North Tower, SOHO尚都北塔二层E2220 Tel: 5869-7173

Kafe Peranakan: If one ship galley cook tried to teach another the recipe for laksa using flag signals, the result might have been the “laksa curry noodle” (¥38) at Kafe Peranakan. Which is to say, something has been lost in translation here. The watery curry base contained an assortment of green beans, boiled shrimp, squid, and mystery meat on the bone, while the noodles might have been spaghetti from the supermarket. We’ve heard that authentic Malaysian variations on laksa can be delicious, but this one definitely missed the boat.

Find it: 17 north of Kuntai International Center, 朝外大街昆泰国际中心南侧17号 Tel: 5879-0370

Did you miss your fav bowl of laksa? Let us know about it in the comments below!